Memory Land

I first experienced the green world of Dang District in South Gujarat three decades ago when I visited the region to review the work of the National Literacy Mission. It triggered a passionate love affair which over the years (and numerous subsequent visits) has transformed into a meaningful relationship, taking me into the very heart of the forests and the culturally diverse communities of people settled here. Every visit has turned into an unexpected journey, revealing new realities – human, folkloric, ecological, social and spiritual.

Memory Land- Book cover

Book cover

Dang

Dang is a densely forested region which runs down the slopes of the Sahyadris, in the east, towards the plains of Gujarat in the west. From rugged mountains, the land dips towards low plateaus before it finally sinks to the plains, carrying river waters seawards. In the valleys and lowlands there’s rich and fertile black cotton soil whilst in the uplands there’s red soil which is dark and porous. Because of the undulating surface of the land, both red and black soil mix, creating the magic of varied foliage and ground cover. Here there are moist deciduous, dry deciduous and a sprinkling of evergreen forests which are home to a baffling range of trees, shrubs, climbers, grasses and countless species of wild life.

At a vaghdev stone in Dang

At a vaghdev stone in Dang

Across the centuries, people from traditional communities have settled here, driven by hostile armies, hunger and the need to be nourished and ‘belong’. Early records seem a bit unclear about whether it was the Mahar Koli or the Bhil who first made these forests their home. However, they were soon followed by a host of communities including the Warli, Gamit, Kunbi, Dubla, Dhodia, Chaudhari and others. The Bhil, being the most adventurous and aggressive (as a result of the oppressive circumstances that had driven them here) successfully took on the role of resisting invasions by expansionist armies whilst the other communities settled down and established themselves. As a result of this, the Bhil are today perhaps the most economically unstable people in the region.

Despite varied cultural and social differences among the people of Dang, a pan-Dangi identity has evolved and physical spaces in the forests, vibrant with healing and empowering energies, are equally shared and revered. Ma Vali Para, for example, which is the sacred seat of the presiding Devi, is visited by people from various communities and faiths. So are innumerable other spaces. Nature has provided the Dangis with indigenous physical spaces that attract belief beyond differences.

This is what has drawn me to the region and encouraged me to be respectful of cultural diversity and the sacredness of forests, helping me to strengthen my faith in the all-pervasive power of the earth and the need to protect and preserve our natural world.

I am not reluctant to admit that I have had meaningful spiritual experiences when among the pristine bamboo brakes of Mahal, under the mysterious star smeared dome of a Chinchali night, in desolate Gotiamal, green rich Vaghai, Wasurna and Linga (seats of forgotten Bhil Rajas), Ahwa (which has been constantly on the crosshairs of Dangi history), Dhavalidod (where I have spent nights learning the language of darkness from the late Janu Kaka, a Kunbi Bhagat) and Chikar. From the rivers of the region I learnt patience, forgiveness and the will to go on – in life-altering ways.

I have had the good fortune of learning from evolved shamans, storytellers, folklorists and gentle souls, the secrets of the forests and the power of sacred spaces. You will get to know them as they appear in the poems that follow.

The drawings in this book are not illustrations of the poems but unravel their own narrative through line, texture and symbol. Shrugging off the need to express themselves through words, my responses found this form equally fulfilling. The drawings were created over the years from embedded experiences of the forest that rose from inside me. They filtered up to the surface in the same way that water from the seemingly dry bed of a forest stream oozes up when one digs a pit. Side by side with the written word, they offer their own dimensions.

In these poems and drawings I celebrate the power and beauty of Dang and all her living beings.

- From the introduction to the book

Walking In The Hills

Into the green rain hills
Where the wind-cry of lashed trees
Whip wet sheets
Flapping over leaf-tops
We walk,
Expecting nothing -
Only the surprise of coloured stones
Broken light on wayside flowers,
Ruined totems.

In wild fields
Lost paths open woods,
Old wounds
Half healed by worms and butterflies
Bubbling in the shade;
The sun tangled in thicket
Chokes in moss.

Where does one go
If the day ends suddenly
And the hearts of flowers
Close into themselves
And evening is endless?
Where does one go?

In the last remembered hour
Where will we be?
Still here in the green rain hills
Or on the asphalt edge of the abyss
Waiting to be delivered
With the longing of lost summers
And the rainbow kiss of forgetfulness
On our lips sealed with silence?


Storm

I heard your voice rise from the river
To the steamy air
Turn caw of jungle crow
Then breeze song
Cicada castanet
And hiss of forest burning red.
I heard you in the click of the tree frog,
Night heron squawk,
Snake rustle and whistle of the kheriya.
Then mother, came your terrible silence.

You arrived with the wind
Dark and terrible, bursting through trees,
Churning clouds till they exploded,
Rained grey and hard,
You spoke thunder, mother,
Electric eels through the watery air.

You hammered on my windows,
Dislodged tiles,
Shoved your great wet hands into this house
And touched my face, my hands, my chest,
Drummed where I lay in the darkness,
Circled me,
Breathed secrets I do not remember,
And then you left.

I opened the door,
Walked out into the night in search of you;
The river sang in the dark below,
The kheriya whistled
And the bent sal dropped two leaves,
A lone firefly blinked.

I’ll leave my windows open for your return,
My door open – so you may enter
Smelling of the river, of the sky, of the earth,
Of centuries of remembrance,
Of legends and lore,
Of peacefulness and love,
Of the burst of birth and death,
Storm mother, earth mother, come.


It Rained All Night

It rained all night and from the shores of sleep
I heard the river talking to the wind,
Hills sang ancient tree-songs
In the brown October of their growing years;

And then clearly, pure and simple
As the crystal of spring water
In a sun speckled bamboo grove,
I realised how blessed the rain is –

As it sanctifies the earth and all it touches,
As it licks the bodies of living beings,
As it bursts in thunder showers of grey on green,
As it feeds rivers and makes them sing;

Blessed is the rain that tenderly opens seeds,
That makes the wildness flower,
That celebrates the force of root and mud,
Blessed is the rain.

It rained all night and from the shores of morning
I greeted the day, full fleshed and glowing,
Not seeking meaning anymore
But being, being whole, being.


A Kunbi Bhagat Sings Under The Stars

Lie still if you want to see the stars moving,
On your back, look into the dark blue
Stream of the sky, watch them swim,
The smaller in swarms, vast and mysterious,
The larger ones, tails swishing
Move through, downstream where the water
Is white as milk and the reeds throw shadows;

Lie still if you want to see the stars moving,
Birds gliding through leaf-shade,
Feathers flashing, calling with voices of yesterday
Drifting into tomorrow;
You and I here, now, watching the passing –
Through time, through seasons, through
Pathways of light and night
And the eternal quiver of the living;

Lie still if you want to see the stars moving,
Harden your muscles, let your bones settle into
Your flesh and fat like a fallen tree does with the earth,
Sinks in, everything moves but the tree;
And the wind walking through the woods steps over it
On its way to the far hills and the river;
Move – and the fish and birds and all the beings above
Will freeze as on a pithora on your wall
Waiting for your stillness to set them free again.


River Girls

Girls are down at the river today,
Lean, brown, small hipped and smiling,
Floating on the water’s skin,
Plum breasts hard against their chests.

Tomorrow they’ll be women, fill themselves
With life each year
Until their homes are laughing with their young,
Dark cares in the air they breathe.

They’ll be themselves, for now,
Playing with moments like they do their hair,
Cascading on the river’s rim,
Twirling and combing, ribboning in red.

The river’s seen it all,
The young, the heavy wombed, the old –
And death come staggering down the drunken path
To watch a pyre flame its way to ash.

The band that performed original compositions in response to the poems in MEMORY LAND.

The band that performed original compositions in response to the poems in MEMORY LAND.